Sewing A Leg Shield Banner

Start by laying the screen printed front on the fabric you will be use for the back of the banner. I used black flannel (Its soft against the paint and it allows you to turn it inside easily). Next use the guidelines and cut out both the front and the back at the same time. Leave about 1/8" outside the printed line for the seam allowance.

Finished cutting.

Next measure and mark 8 1/4" from the edge of the logo on each side. Trim here for the banner edge. 

Now take the back fabric and place it on the front of the banner. Next pin it in place so it will not move while you sew the top and the bottom together. Sew a 1/4" seam along the bottom and top edge only.  (you will need to keep the ends open for now).

Remember to double stitch as you start and finish a seam.

Turn the banner right side out.

Be sure to push the arc out as far as possible.

Now press the seams as flat as you can. NOTE!! DO NOT iron the logo itself, it will melt and smear the ink!

Next fold the ends over and press a 1/2"edge. Roll the 1/2" to the inside and press flat.

Now cut the 1" nylon strapping into 15" lengths. Burning the ends after you cut them. You will need 4 per banner.

Measure 1 1/2" from the end of the strap and mark with a pin.

Place the strap inside the end of the banner stopping at your marking pin.

Secure in place with a pin or not, it is up to you. Both work.

Start top stitching with the first strap and sew all the way around the whole banner inserting the other 3 straps as you go.

After top stiching all the way around go back and reinforce the straps as shown above.

Single Adjust Side Release Buckle: need 4 per banner

Sliplock® Buckle: need 4 per banner

Now put on the the buckles and sliplock buckles.

Using buckles and sliplock buckles on both sides allows complete adjustment for all size of leg shields.

Front view

Back view

Hope this has helped.

Ciao!

Making Heinkel Center Stand Buffer Mounts

This is the solution that I have come up with. I have never seen the real bumper so this may not be the best way to do it but I am happy with the out come. I started by buying the supplies from two stores. The first item you need is 2 - 1 1/2" freeze plugs from and auto parts store for the large center rubber part. The other items were purchased from a hardware store.  12 - 1 1/2" flat washers 2 - 3/8 x 2"carriage bolts and 2 - 3/8" nuts.

Items Purchased

Start by sanding off the ugly letters on top of the bolts. I put the bolt into my drill press and used sand paper starting with a 80 grit sanding disc, you can curve the disc to give you the perfect arc, then work your way down to 400 grit.( 80 - 100 - 220 - 400) Using the sanding disc as a backer to keep the same arc. I ended with a scotch pad to give it the nice brushed look.

Next I ground off two of the square edges on opposite side of the carriage bolt to allow it to pass through the floor board. Still allowing it to not turn.


My floor board had this notch hopefully yours does too.

Next twist the bolt into the rubber bushing.

Hand tighten then the nut

Now carefully cut around the nut deep into the bushing. Cutting a little at a time as you work around the nut several times until the handle of the exacto knife touches the top of the bolt.

Remove the nut and bolt.

Finish cutting around the bolt pattern connecting all six sides.

Now cut on an angle around the inside of the hole as shown. Cutting a little at a time. Going slow so you do not cut too deep.

Now pull the center out with a pair of pilers.

You will have to do some minor clean up to get it nice and clean.

Next twist the nut onto the bolt and push it into the buffer.

Before this step you need to install the bumper and measure the distance the bolt comes out of the nut. Measure it with a pair of calipers so you know exactly how long to cut the bolt so it is flush with the nut when it is completely installed.  

I ground the bolt to get a nice clean edge.

Next I used a wire wheel brush in the drill press to really clean up the end of the threads so it will easily screw onto the nut.

Cleaned up bolt end.

The assembled unit. 

Viewed from the other end.

Start the final assembly by making sure the carriage bolt sits flush with the top of the floor board. If it does not go back and grind it down with a dremel until it does.

Sitting nice and flush.

Now take the six washers and twist it all together. Use locktite.

Twisting it until it is nice and tight. Only use your hand to do this you do not want the nut to pull through the buffer

See the bolt is flush with the nut. But is inset so the center stand does not hit the nut.

Center stand centers right on the buffer.

Finished.

Removing the Rhino Liner from the Heinkel

Cut and Peal

Almost Done 

All Clean

Found the switch turned upside down in the steering column

Love the Retro Switch

Now looking for these old dome cap screws

Need to find a rubber bumper that goes in here

Put this up on the forms to find out what they are for.

Weekend Working

Around the shop

Items done today.
For Veronica.
1-2 Discovered that my new cylinder head was machined wrong
3-4 Matched both intake and exhaust ports and polished.
5-6 Adjusted the fit on the new Exhaust.

For Greta
7 Removed the way abused Speedo to be able to exchange it towards a new one.
8-9 Made a new license plate backing holder

Lammy Time

Mugello 225 V3

Spent so time with the Lammy today. Dropped the engine. 1 hour to remove the muffler! No more aluminum shims! Hope to get the squish test done later in the week. Need to order a few small parts to complete the small rebuild. Late in the summer I had a soft seize that lead to the need of a new cylinder.